Wiggle Flower Monday

As I was making Mother's Day baskets, I thought last week's Wiggle Snowflake might make a great washcloth if made in worsted weight yarn. I played around with the colors, and I came up with a couple of modifications I like so much, I wish I'd thought of them before I made so many Wiggle Snowflakes!

And just look what you can do with this motif if you make a whole bunch! Plus, this motif doesn't need to be stiffened! (Blocking does improve the appearance, but is not required.)








Worked in a not-so-soft cotton, this motif makes an excellent exfoliating washcloth. But be sure to wash it often because dead skin can grow bacteria!

Each motif background takes approximately 40 yards of worsted weight yarn. Each wiggle flower takes approximately 30 yards of worsted weight yarn. If making the center a different color, leftovers may be used.


You may do whatever you'd like with flower motifs you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 10.5 inches from point to point for each motif
Materials: Worsted weight yarn in two or three colors, size H crochet hook

Wiggle Flower Motif Instructions

With flower center color, make magic ring.

Round 1: Sl st in ring, ch 1, pull up loop on hook nearly as big as dc, [draw up loop through ring, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, (counts as starting dc of 3/dc cluster), * ch 5, [yo and draw up loop through ring, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook (dc cluster made), ch 5; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in top of starting dc cluster; bind off if making center a different color. Weave in ends. Pull magic ring tight.

Round 2: With main color, 1 dc in any cluster; ch 3 (or if using same color as center, ch 5 to form first dc and first ch 3), * 1 dc in next cluster, ch 3, 1 dc in same cluster, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 dc in starting cluster, ch 3; sl st in starting dc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 3: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in same ch as sl st at end of Round 2, ch 3; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.

Round 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * around 22 times for a total of 24 ch 3 spaces; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5

Round 5: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * around 22 times for a total of 24 ch 3 spaces; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.

Round 6: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp, ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last dc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5; bind off. Weave in ends.
TIP: Leave a long enough tail when binding off to weave the tail down through the ch 2/dc starts of each round and the dc start of the second round to the center, and then crochet over the end when making the wiggles.

A reminder: Moogly has an excellent video tutorial for wiggle crochet in the round here. Tamara's Moogly blog is an excellent resource for all kinds of crochet.

Wiggles: Following the chart below (which is the same chart as last week's snowflake and does not reflect today's base changes), with contrast color, work 1 dc over each red ch 3 sp and 3 dc over each blue ch 3 sp or dc post. If desired, work a picot at the tip of each point by working 2 dc in tip space, ch 3, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), 1 dc in same sp. After working all 6 arms of snowflake, sl st in starting dc; bind off. Weave in ends.


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Motif Joining on 1 Side

Round 6: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc into ch 3 tip of second motif, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp of second motif, ch 1, sk next ch 3 sp, [1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp of second motif, ch 1] 2 times, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 tip of second motif, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, * ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, [1 dc in next dc, ch 3] 2 times, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 3 times; ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5; bind off. Weave in ends.










Motif Joining on 2 Sides

Round 6: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, yo 2 times and draw up loop through ch 3 tip of second motif, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times (2/3rds tr made), yo and draw up loop through ch 3 tip of third motif, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook (3-way tip join made), ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp of second motif, ch 1, sk next ch 3 sp, [1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp of second motif, ch 1] 2 times, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 tip of third motif, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, * ch 3, sk next ch 3 sp, [1 dc in next dc, ch 3] 2 times, sk next ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 2 times; ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5; bind off. Weave in ends.

If joining on 3 sides, work same as above, working 3-way tip join at both 3-tip intersections.

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