All my family and close friends have always known I keep snowflakes around my house all year long. They know dinner in the middle of July will be served on snowflake plates atop wintery or snowflake placemats. They know the snowflake napkins will be enclosed in snowflake napkin rings. They know their beverages will be sipped from snowflake mugs or glasses. The know ambiance lighting might be provided by snowflake nightlights. And they know I have snowflakes hanging on the windows.
This year, they are in for a real treat, not only because the placemats, hot pads and dish cloths are freshly handmade snowflakes, but they might be receiving a set of their own come Christmastime!
Today's patterns, based upon last week's Coxcomb Peak Snowflake, is so much fun, I have yet another variation coming next week. Hope that keeps your curiosity keen!
The first cotton yarn project I made with this pattern was inspired by a few skeins of imported cotton yarn gifted to me by a destashing co-worker. I named the dish cloth after Redcliff, which sits just across the saddle from Coxcomb, both shown above, because, well, we don't have a Watermelon Peak in Colorado, and the color of watermelon is close to red...
This snowflake has a built-in buttonhole or hanging loop on any point. Just sew a button on the completed dish cloth, and hook Redcliff to your fridge or oven.
The second project I made with a larger hook is named after what kept happening the entire time I was making all of these snowflakes, from Coxcomb to El Punto. The Middle Fork of the Cimarron is a dreamy place for me, and I'd get so caught up in romantic flashbacks and just plain fun memories as I was working, I'd often have to frog a row or two and sometimes more because I wasn't concentrating and created big, showy boo-boos.
The third project, which isn't quite snowflake-shaped but hopefully a fun addition to the kitchen and dining room anyway, is named after the basin that inspired this series. And because you put forks on a placemat. That's my humor for the day. Hope my weak attempt at least made you grin!
My favorite set of placemats, of course, has the variegated denim blue edging, but I am extremely pleased with how the ones edged with tiny flecks of Christmas colors turned out, too. Those will make awesome Christmas gifts.
You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!
Finished Size: Daydreamer Hot Pad, 14 inches from point to point; Redcliff Dish Cloth, 16 inches from point to point; Middle Fork Placemat, 14 inches tall and 21.5 inches wide
Materials:
Hot Pad: One 56 g skein worsted weight cotton yarn, small amount of contrasting color if desired
Dish Cloth: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, one in contrasting color, if desired
Placemat: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, half 56 g skein of contrasting color, if desired (1 cone of white and 2 skeins of contrast will make 4 placemats)
All Projects: Size H crochet hook, optional button for dish cloth, if desired
Daydreamer Hot Pad Instructions
Make magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 2 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 8: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.
Redcliff Dish Cloth Instructions
Make magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Bind off here if making a round in complimentary color. Do not bind off if making solid color dish cloth.
Round 8: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 7), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. If working in complimentary color, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around using chainless dc start and bind off. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)
Round 9: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 4 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 4 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If a second color was used for Round 8, start this round with chainless dc start instead of sl st and ch 3 start.
Round 10: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 4 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.
Middle Fork Placemat Instructions
Note: This project starts like a flat piece not worked in the round on the first row, with the second round going all the way around the first row on both sides to become in the round.
Ch 19.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 5th ch from hook, *sk 1 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, ch 1; repeat from * to end of ch for a total of 8 hdc and 8 eyelets. Do not turn.
Begin working in the round on Round 2.
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc over post of final hdc of Row 1 to form half circle, [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; 8 dc in last eyelet to form half circle; [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Do not turn on this or any of the rounds that follow.
Round 3: Sl st in next dc and between same dc and next dc; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 6 times; sk 2 dc; [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc; sk next 2 dc; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 5: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 1 time; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 7: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 3 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 8: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 9: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 5 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 10: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 11:>: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 2 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 4 times [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If working final round in complimentary color, bind off here and begin next round in same sp with 2nd color working 2 dc using chainless dc start instead of ch 2 and 1 dc in same sp. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)
Round 12: Sl st into same opening; ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, [ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot, [[ch 3, 1 dc in same sp]] 3 times; sk ch 1 space of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 7 ch 1 sp; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 (or 1st dc if working in complimentary color); bind off. Weave in ends.
Finish: To hang dish cloth, sew button to 6th round below one snowflake point if desired. Or just hang by point on hook or cabinet knob. Set the table, and have a lovely dinner!
That is a good use for your snowflakes :)
ReplyDeleteGood Morning,
ReplyDeleteWhat a plesant surprise to find these lovely placemats, dishcloths, and hot pads waiting. You are definitely a very talented person and your family will certainly enjoy them for Christmas even if they don't have the same love for snowflakes. If I weren't struggling with an Am. Girl doll sweater pattern, I'd be tempted to start on one of these now. Thanks, and have a great day!
Those placemats are the cutest ever and I love the napkin rings. (I did get the fork pun right away.)
ReplyDeleteWhat a stunning picture at the bottom! Have a great week. How's the climbing training going?
I really need to learn how to crochet. I would love these, especially because you can put them out for Christmas and leave them out through February.
ReplyDeletelove that mountainside. And glad you visited the kayak post. The snake, called Snok, often swims. I have once seen it cathing a fish. :)
ReplyDeleteAnd thinking of snowflakes, I just remembered my sister posted a little piece I made for her dollhouse. You can find it here: NF table cloth
I love this! Thanks for sharing...
ReplyDeleteYou are amazing!!! Your snowflakes are beyond beautiful! I discoved your page about a year ago and I have downloaded every snowflake. I plan on making them all. The trouble is, I have shown them to some family members and if I make one, I will have to make about 5 of each one.
ReplyDeleteNot only do you crochet, but you are a fantastic photographer! I am not a photographer, but I have been married to one for 39 years, so I know good photography when I see it. And you cook and you bike and you quilt and you work!!!
Do you sleep????
Thank you for sharing and for all you do. God Bless you and the Lizard. I love reading your blogs.
Yvonne
Do you think I could use acrylic for these? I don't have enough cotton on hand. I'm concerned about the hot pad but it seems like the placemats would probably be ok in acrylic. Thanks! Diana (aka Charis on the 'ville)
ReplyDeleteHi, Diana
DeleteI think acrylic would be fine for placemats. I grew up using acrylic for placemats because that's all I had access to back then. I would never use acrylic for something that needs to absorb heat, however. I've seen acrylic hotpads with scorch marks, and some of them were pretty dramatic!
Thanks for sharing this beautiful placemat. We got a new dinner table and I don't want to cover it with a table cloth, and this is a good idea, thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Felixa! I love using my placemats on our wood table, too, which is featured above. You're right; it seems a shame to completely cover a beautiful wooden table, even if the covering is beautiful! I hope you enjoy your placemats!
Deletesnowcatcher please help! i dearly love the placemat pattern but i cant seem to get it right? would love a visual help?
Deletei need help with the placemat pattern? i love it but am struggling so mush with it can anyone help?? a tutorial video would be amazing!
ReplyDeleteAnonymous, I do not have a video tutorial (and currently do not have the ability to do such), but I can take some still photos if that would help. What part is it you are having difficulty with?
Deletewell the first couple rounds did not seem to come out proportionately correct on each end to match? and second to last row was way off? thank you
Deletestill close ups might help??
DeleteOkay, I will try to get some photos to add to the post, but the photos might not be up until next week. I'll do my best...
DeleteI love your patterns and am making a set of the Middle Fork Placemats. On row 1 of the instructions, I believe there needs to be a ch 1 between each hdc. Or am I missing something?
ReplyDeleteJust a suggestion, but I've changed the initial chain to 21, then after doing 7 hdc stitches, I join back in the first ch stitch. This makes a four chain loop on each end and it is much easier to do the needed 8 double crochets onto a simple chain than to cram them onto a thicker hdc.
On round 2, it says to do 7 dc over post of final dc of Row 1. Per your pattern, there is no dc in row 1. It should be either changed to read the final hdc, or, if you change to the longer beginning chain, then it would need to say to do 7 dc over last four chain loop made. I'm not too sure I'm making sense since I've never written patterns before. Just trying to get across what I think I've figured out.