Snowshade Monday

Idea! Idea!

I was walking around the lake at dusk one night when I spied these sunflowers, and they gave me a Halloween costume idea!


To kick off snowflake season, the Yahoo group Sisters of the Snowflake is beginning a special Snowflake-Along this week, using charts graciously crafted by Sue. Everyone is warmly welcome to join in. Check it out!

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes/eyeglasses you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 3-round snowflake, 4.5 inches from point to point; Snowshades, 7 inches across, 3.5 inches wide
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 7 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, water soluble school glue, water, optional glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, clean plastic sandwich bag, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing

NOTE: I do not recommend starch for stiffener on this project because it's just not strong enough. All-purpose glue definitely lasts longer, but glue residue after drying can be unsightly and challenging to completely remove, although not impossible. Stiffening with Epsom salts makes the Snowshades very stiff and thick, camouflaging lace and color detail but making them look more frozen, as well as not waterproof. Modge Podge might be the perfect solution for some crocheters, but to me, it's just too flexible. Water-soluble glue will not hold up in rain or snow storms either but otherwise looks and functions the best, in my opinion.


Opening is 2 inches across, perfect for a small photo!

Snowshade Snowflake Instructions

Ch 36. Taking care not to twist ch, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Round 1: * 1 sc in next ch, ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, 1 dtr in next ch, ch 3, 1 dtr in next ch, ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch; repeat from * around 5 times for a total of 6 petals; do not join.

Round 2: 1 sc around 2 sc group below, 2 sc in next ch 2 sp, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, in next ch 3 sp work (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, 2 sc in next ch 2 sp, 1 sc around next 2 sc group; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), * sk next 2 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next sc, 1 dc in next hdc, ch 2, sk next dc, 1 dc in next ch 3 tip, ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 2, 1 dc in same ch 3 tip, ch 2, sk next dc, 1 dc in next hdc, ch 2, sk next sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next sc, 1 dc in next sc, sk next 3 sc, 1 dc in next sc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last dc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.


Snowshades Instructions

First Snowflake

Ch 36. Taking care not to twist ch, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Round 1: * 1 sc in next ch, ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, 1 dtr in next ch, ch 3, 1 dtr in next ch, ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch; repeat from * around 5 times for a total of 6 petals; do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: 1 sc around 2 sc group below, 2 sc in next ch 2 sp, 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, in next ch 3 sp work (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, 2 sc in next ch 2 sp, 1 sc around next 2 sc group; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Second Snowflake

Work same as First Snowflake, joining snowflakes on one point during Round 2 with following step instead of 1 ch 3 point (doesn't matter which point):

Ch 1, 1 dc cluster in ch 3 tip of First Snowflake, ch 1.

When I made my first pair of Snowshades, I stiffened after making the temples. Did you know Temple is the name of the arm on the side of the glasses that goes over your ear and holds the glasses in place??? I sure didn't!


my favorite temple
When I made my second pair of Snowshades, I stiffened the snowflakes before making the temples. This made the overall stiffening process easier, in my opinion, but made working the temples on the first couple of rows a little challenging. Bent or misshapen temples may be restiffened or reinforced with another layer of fresh glue. Use the method that best suits your comfort level.

Shade Temple

Make 2.

Determine which side of Snowshades will be the front. Both Temples will be worked on the back side, directly across from nose bridge point, as shown.




Row 1: Working from back of Snowshades as shown, 1 dc in bottom of drop sc, 1 dc in each of next 5 gaps between stitches as follows: 1 dc in gap between sc and dc, 1 dc in gap between dc and dtr, 1 dc in gap between 2 dtr, 1 gap in dc between dtr and dc, 1 dc between dc and sc; 1 dc in next drop sc, ch 2, turn. (Total 7 dc each row; or, counting ch 2 as 1 dc, 8 dc across each row.)

Rows 2-5: 1 dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn.

Row 6: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each dc across for a total of 6 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 7: 1 dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn.

Row 8: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each dc across for a total of 5 dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 9: 1 dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Row 10: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each dc across for a total of 4 dc, ch 2, turn.

Rows 11-13: 1 dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn.

Row 14: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each dc across for a total of 3 dc, ch 2, turn.

Rows 15-16: 1 dc in each dc across, ch 2, turn

Row 17: To begin shaping temple tip/earpiece, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 18: 2 dc in next dc, yo and draw up loop through same dc, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, [yo and draw up loop through next dc, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, turn.

Row 20: 2 dc in next dc, yo and draw up loop through same dc, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, [yo and draw up loop through next dc, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, ch 2, turn.

Row 21: Sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, turn; do not ch.

Row 22: 3 dc in next dc, 1 sc in middle of dc just made, 1 sc in next dc, sl st in next dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Work second temple same as first, starting 1st row in same direction as first temple or your second temple will be curving up instead of down.

ANOTHER VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you accidentally made your temples wrong, one pointing up and one pointing down, and you don't want to unravel the entire second temple, unravel just to Row 15, and work Row 17 as Row 16, follow remaining row directions as written, then work one extra row of single crochet at the end to make up for the missed row. Ask me how I figured this out... No one will be looking behind your ears with a magnifying glass when you wear these Snowshades, so it won't matter if the shaping isn't perfectly identical.


Finish: If using snowflake templates, tape onto top of empty pizza box, using a pair of sunglasses to measure distance between eyepieces as shown. Or, oh, heck, maybe I should just draw a new template for you...

Here you go: Snowshades Template

Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box, covering templates.


If stiffening glasses before adding Temples, squirt about a teaspoon of glue or about a teaspoon of glue with a few drops of water into sandwich bag, put Snowshade glasses into bag and squish around until glasses are saturated with glue. Squeeze or pat off excess. Shape and pin Snowshade glasses to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.


If stiffening glasses after adding Temples, pin Snowshade glasses to box with temples on the top. Place a small pill bottle or other small brace in each Snowshade center to hold temples out of the way as shown during Snowshade stiffening. Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container, or use glue full strength for stronger, thicker glasses. Paint Snowshades with glue mixture or desired stiffener.


With either method of construction, allow Snowshade glasses to dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours in my opinion. Remove pins. Gently peel Snowshades from wax paper or plastic wrap.

If stiffening Snowshades before adding Temples, work Temples now.


Place pizza box on edge of stable surface out of the way so Snowshades may hang over edge undisturbed while temple is drying. Pin one temple as shown and paint with glue/water mixture or with full-strength glue. Allow temple to dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours in my opinion. Remove pins. Gently peel temple from wax paper or plastic wrap. Repeat for second temple.

If glitter is desired, position Snowshades on box once more as shown. Gently paint front of Snowshades with light layer of water/glue mixture. Sprinkle with glitter and allow to dry thoroughly.

Snowshades stiffened with water-soluble glue will droop in rain or snow. Snowshades stiffened with all-purpose glue may have glue residue that is difficult or time-intensive to remove. (But it makes them hold up in storms!) Snowshades that become soft may be restiffened via the same process as above and will be a little stronger but still susceptible to softness in damp conditions.

Tweet

Pin It