Snowflake Monday

Check this out!!!




I tried to research why dark colors painted with glow-in-the-dark glue don't emit as much glow but wasn't able to learn much more than different colors require different light spectrums to charge. My guess is that the white offers a reflectiveness, while the darker colors absorb. But that's the just the ancient photography darkroom technician in me coming out of hiding.

I tried charging the dark colors with daylight, LED, incandescent and fluorescent light. I even gave the larger skull three coats of glow-in-the-dark glue. The LED worked the best, and I think it's because I set the light right on top of the skulls for a few moments.

Here are the orange skulls charged with LED light.


And here is the same photo played with in the mobile version of Photoshop.








I stiffened my Nocturne Skullflakes and skulls the very same way I have stiffened snowflakes with glue for decades, using the glow-in-the-dark glue instead of school glue. I painted narrow flake joints with full-power glow-in-the-dark glue, not mixed with a bit of water, and boy, do those joints glow!!!

This new glue makes me want to remake every single one of my Halloween snowflakes from the past nine years!!!


You may do whatever you'd like with skulls and skullflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 6 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 7 crochet hook, sequins or beads or stick-on jewels or permanent markers or embroidery floss for eyes, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, water soluble school glue or desired stiffener, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Nocturne Skull Motif Instructions


Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), 8 dc in ring; work 1 more dc into ring, using linked dc method to connect it to first 2 ch of starting ch 4 to prevent a gap between stitches (yo, draw up loop through magic ring, draw up loop through 1st ch of starting ch 4 and pull through 2 loops on hook, draw up loop through 2nd ch of starting ch 4 and pull through 2 loops on hook). Pull magic circle tight as you can.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: Sl st into ch 2 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc in same ch 2 sp, sk next dc, 2 dc in each dc around, using the linked dc method described in Round 1 for the 16th dc.

Row 3 Teeth: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, ch 3, [sk next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, ch 1, 1 hdc in next dc, turn.

Row 4 Teeth: Ch 3, [sk next ch 1 sp, 1 hdc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, sk next ch, ch 2, sl st in next ch; bind off here if making Skullflake motifs.

Here are completed skulls with and without the 5th Round. Do not use the 5th Round if you are making the Skullflake, but refer to single crochet diagram below to complete the final Round of the Skullflake.






Optional Round 5: Work sc all the way around skull, using sl st at the jaw bones to maintain the curved shape and using 2 sc in each tooth gap and 3 sc in each corner gap as shown below; bind off. Weave in ends.


Nocturne Skullflake Instructions


Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in ring, [ch 3, 2 dc in ring] 5 times; ch 1, 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to form 6th ch 3 sp of Round. Pull magic circle tight as desired.

Round 2: 1 sc over post of dc directly below, [ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 5, 1 sc in same sp] 6 times, omitting last ch 5 and last sc of final repeat; ch 2, 1 tr in starting sc to form 6th ch 5 loop of Round.




Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 (dc), 2 dc over post of tr directly below, [ch 2, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 5 loop, ch 3, 3 dc in same loop] 5 times; ch 2, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to form 6th ch 3 tip of Round.




Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc over post of dc directly below, [working from front of skull motif, 1 sc in top center of skull, working counter clockwise around, 1 sc in each dc to jaw joint, sl st in jaw joint, 2 sc in next tooth gap, 3 sc in tooth corner, 2 sc in next tooth gap, 3 sc in next tooth corner, 2 sc in next tooth gap, sl st in jaw joint, 1 sc in each dc to top of skull, 3 dc in next ch 3 tip, ch 12, sl st in 10th ch from hook, ch 2 (picot loop made), 3 dc in same ch 3 tip] 6 times, omitting last 3 sc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

NOTE: My prototype Nocturne Skullflake included ch 2 spaces between the skulls and the 3/dc shells. The flake may be worked either way. I wrote the pattern without the ch 2 spaces because I like that version better. Also notice the variations in pinning of the shorter points.


Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin skullflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

If using glue, mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint skullflake with glue mixture or desired stiffener. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow skullflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel skullflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the skullflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Skullflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Didn't notice the pirate skull and the rolling eyeball until after I embedded the photos in this blog post. The lost eye has now been resocketed!

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